Hello, all! Well, I got a little lazy last week and decided to take the whole week off. It was a spontaneous decision, mostly brought about by Matt’s urging. But I have to admit, he didn’t have to twist my arm very hard to get me to take a week off. And I actually did take eight days (from Friday to Friday) away from house-related projects. I finally picked up my tools and got started again this past Saturday.
I’m still making slow but steady progress on my music room, and I’m just about done with all of the wood filling and sanding on the bookcases and ceiling. But I also did the job that I was dreading the most — installing crown moulding.
I’ve been dreading it and putting it off for quite some time now, and finally had to get it done. And I was so surprised at how easy it was this time!! This was only my second time to use my Kreg Crown Pro*, and things went so smoothly that I got all of my cuts right on the first try, and I got all of the crown moulding installed by myself in about an hour (not including caulking, of course). In case you’ve never seen a Kreg Crown Pro, here’s what it looks like…
It’s very simple, and holds the crown moulding at just the right angle so that you can cut it with your miter saw. It has a dial on the back side where you set your spring angle (the angle at which the crown moulding projects off of the wall). The most common spring angles are 38-degrees, 45-degrees, and 52-degrees, with 38-degrees being the most common. If you don’t know the spring angle of your crown moulding, the Kreg Crown Pro comes with an angle finder to help you determine the spring angle. Once you have the spring angle set on the Kreg Crown Pro, you’re ready to go!
The only other information you need (besides the length of the wall where you want to add crown moulding) is the type of corner that you need to cut. You have to first determine whether it’s an outside or inside corner, and then whether it’s a left piece or a right piece. You can see all four corner pieces in this one area of my bathroom.
Once you’ve determined which corner you need, it’s just a matter of setting your saw correctly, and making sure that your crown moulding is being fed from the right direction. It’s also important to note that the crown moulding sits in the Kreg Crown Pro with the face of the crown moulding visible, but it needs to sit upside down. So the bottom edge of the crown moulding is actually pointing up.
Here are the settings for the four different corners:
Left Inside Corner:
For a left inside corner, the saw angles to the right at a 45-degree angle, and the jig and crown moulding sit to the right of the blade.
Left Outside Corner:
For a left outside corner, the saw is angled to the left at 45-degrees, and the jig and crown moulding sit to the right of the blade.
Right Inside Corner:
For a right inside corner, the saw angles to the left at 45-degrees, and the jig and crown moulding sit to the left of the blade.
Right Outside Corner:
For a right outside corner, the saw angles to the right at a 45-degree angle, and the jig and crown moulding sit to the left of the blade.
The Kreg Crown Pro* actually has diagrams on the front that shows all of the positions, but the more you use the jig, and the more the crown moulding rubs against those stickers, the harder they become to see. I suggest taking pictures like mine above and labeling them, and actually putting them in a very visible and handy spot in your garage or workshop (close to your miter saw) for an easy reference.
This method also makes it very easy to cut the crown to the accurate length. You measure the length of your wall from corner to corner, and then transfer that measurement to the crown moulding. And since it’s the bottom edge of the crown moulding that sits against the wall, and the crown moulding sits in the jig upside down, your pencil marks are easily visible so that you can accurately line up your laser guide with your pencil mark.
Just remember when you’re marking your measurements on the crown moulding that any outside corners (as shown in the picture above) require a few extra inches past the measurement mark. That’s important to keep in mind when you’re buying your crown moulding also. Just to be on the safe side, when I’m purchasing crown moulding (and cutting the amount I need in the store), I allow about four or five extra inches for any outside corners.
My corners are never perfect, but I’ve found that caulk fills in those imperfections perfectly.
The reason my corners are never perfect is because I cut all of my crown moulding at 45-degree angles, but the corners of my rooms are seldom (or never) perfectly 90 degrees. Most of the time, the corners are just over or just under 90 degrees.
If you’re more of a perfectionist than I am, and can’t bear the thought of fixing gaps with caulk like I do, you can use the angle finder that comes with the Kreg Crown Pro to find the exact angle of your walls, and then set your miter saw to exactly half of that measurement. So if your corner is actually 88 degrees rather than 90 degrees, you would set your miter saw to 44 degrees instead of 45 degrees to cut both pieces for that corner. And of course, if you have any non-standard corners in your home (e.g., around bay windows), you would need to use the angle finder for those areas as well.
It’s getting there!