I finally made some good progress on the window trim on my new dining room windows yesterday. It’s not even finished yet, and I haven’t even gotten to the two windows on the fireplace wall yet, and still it has already transformed the look of the room. I still need to wood fill, sand, caulk, and paint, but here’s how the front windows look so far…
In the end, I decided to go with the same trim that I have on all of the doors simply because I’ll be putting only Roman shades on the front windows, and I really like the taller, more substantial trim used with Roman shades. If I were going to use draperies on all of the windows, I would have used smaller trim.
A couple of you said that you had the same project ahead of you, and you were waiting to see how I did mine, so let me show you the details. My windows started out looking like this…
That’s the picture I took a couple of hours after the window installers left, so my windows have looked like this since October 23rd.
The first thing I did was cut and install the stool, and a 1 x 4 turned out to be the exact size (depth) that I needed for this. I used pre-primed pine fingerjoint boards for this. In order to mark where I needed to make my cuts, I placed the board on a drywall mud container and pushed it against the wall/windows as far as I could, and then used a straight edge (a small level) to mark make my marks.
And then to be sure that my marks were perfectly square, I followed up with a framing square. A speed square is preferable for things like this, but I don’t own one of those. As I made my marks with the framing square, I also moved it over from my original marks about 1/16th inch just to give myself a bit of wiggle room.
Next I measured the depth that I needed to cut those sections…
And I transferred that measurement to the board. I always put an “X” in the section that needs to be cut out to eliminate any potential for confusion once I take the board into the garage to cut it.
I repeated that for every section that I needed to cut out to go around the framing and the walls on each end. The amount I needed to cut on the ends to wrap around the walls was deeper since it had to wrap around drywall as well. The middle sections were only 1 3/4 inches deep, while the end sections that wrap around the walls were 2 3/16 inches deep to account for the drywall.
Once I had all of my marks on the board, I cut out the notches with my jigsaw. I also cut the ends to the length I wanted them, making sure I left enough to extend just past the outer window casings. With everything cut, I tested the board to be sure it would fit properly, and then nailed it into place with 16-gauge finish nails.
EDIT: I had someone ask how to make the cuts in the corners of the notches with a jigsaw, so hopefully this diagram will help.
Cutting a squared notched requires four cuts with a jigsaw. The first and second cuts go from the edge of the board to the corners of your marked section that needs to be cut out. For the third cut, you start with your blade in the cut that you just made (cut #2), and curve your cut around until you hit the cut line, and continue cutting to the corner where you’ll meet cut #1. Then turn your saw around, and start along the cut line where you just cut, and continue to cut until your blade reaches cut #2 in the corner. Since you have to cut around a curve (cut #3), it’s easier if you can use a curve/detail blade on your jigsaw. But if you don’t have a curve/detail blade for your jigsaw, just give yourself plenty of room to make the curve with the larger blade. You can clean up that corner with cut #4.
Next I covered the exposed framing boards with drywall. This wasn’t really needed, but I did like that it would give me something a little more substantial to nail the trim to later, rather than having empty space behind these trim pieces.
Then I was ready to add the stops around the window. I started with the top stop, and I used the same pine fingerjoint board for the stops that I used for the stool. I had to use my table saw to rip this board to the exact width that I needed, which was 2 1/8 inches.
With the top stops in, I moved on to the side stops. I had to rip these boards also, since they also needed to be 2 1/8 inches wide.
With the stool, all three top stops, and all six side stops installed, that finished out the trim around the inside of the window framing. Then it was on to the pretty stuff — the casings. I added the outside casings first, and for the casings, I used MDF boards. For the two outer side casings, I used 1 x 4’s, just like I use on my door casings.
I also used a 1 x 4 for the apron below the stool.
And then I added the top header casing, which was the same 1 x 6 sandwiched between two 1 x 2’s that I’ve used on all of my doors. I put this together on the floor using wood glue and 18-gauge nails, and then added lots of construction adhesive to the back, and lifted and placed it on top of the two side casing pieces and nailed it into place using 16-gauge finish nails.
And to finish things up, I added the casings to the two center areas. The 1 x 4’s that I used for the outer casings weren’t quite wide enough for these two center areas, so I had to rip down some wider boards to fit.
And that’s it! It’s really quite simple, and this particular style is probably the easiest to do since there’s no fancy trim that needs to be mitered and wrapped to return to the wall (like you have with casing headers that use crown moulidng) or anything like that. It’s all just plain boards with square cuts. The hardest thing about it is cutting the notches for the stool, but that goes quickly as long as you have a jigsaw.
So let’s take a little stroll back in time, shall we?
Here’s how the front windows looked when we bought the house.
And here’s a better view of the front windows, but with the casings removed.
And here are my new windows right after installation.
And here’s the progress on the front windows.
I couldn’t be happier with it.
UPDATE: I got all of the windows trimmed out. Here’s how they all look so far.