DIY Project:
Upholstered Headboard With Wood Frame
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Upholstered headboards come in all shapes and sizes these
days, and there are styles to fit every design aesthetic. This
particular upholstered headboard, with its wood frame detail, has a
wonderful contemporary look that will complement a contemporary bedroom,
or can add a nice juxtaposition to an otherwise traditionally decorated
bedroom.
*Note: This headboard is made to hang on the wall.
If you do not have wall space to hang the headboard (i.e., your bed is in
front of a window), you will need to modify the design by adding legs to the
finished headboard.
Skill Level:
Project Cost: Approximately
$55 + cost of fabric, vinyl, or leather
Materials:
1. 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF, cut to
the desired headboard size;
2. Piece of 1" thick foam,
large enough to cover the MDF board (this foam can be pieced
together);
3. Polyester high-loft batting,
enough to cover the headboard size with two layers of batting;
4. Fabric, leather, or vinyl,
enough to cover the size of the headboard, plus approximately six to
ten inches in each size. (width of headboard + 10 inches; height of
headboard + 10 inches)
5. Buttons (I used seven
1.5-inch half ball cover buttons available at most fabric/craft
stores. You can use as many buttons as you like, in any size
you like.)
6. 1" x 3" lumber, enough to
cover the width of the headboard on one side, and the height of the
headboard on two sides. (I used pre-primed MDF 1 x 3. I find
that they're more consistently straight than are solid wood lumber.
However, if you're going to stain your frame rather than paint, you
will need to select solid wood 1 x 3 lumber. Just be sure that
you check each piece to be sure it's straight and not warped.)
7. Wood glue;
8. 1 1/4" wood screws;
9. Paint or wood stain;
10. 1/16" polyester drapery cord.
Tools & Supplies:
1. Miter saw;
2. Drill with drill bits & screwdriver
bits;
3. Staple gun and staples;
4. Electric sander;
5. Paint brush;
6. Sharpie marker
10. Wooden skewer or thin screwdriver;
11. C-clamps;
12. Embroidery needle or upholstery needle
(needs to be at least around 2" long with a very large eye);
13. Hammer.
Instructions:
1. Begin with a piece of 3/4" MDF cut to the
desired headboard size. If you purchase your MDF at a home
improvement store like Lowe's or Home Depot, they will cut it for you.
2. Using a miter saw, cut a piece of 1" x 3"
lumber to the exact width of the headboard, mitering the corners at a 45
degree angle. Check for fit.
3. If the cut is accurate, apply wood glue to
the board, and clamp in place at the top of the headboard.
4. Cut two more pieces of 1" x 3" lumber to
complete the frame on both sides of the headboard. Note:
Only the sides and the top of the headboard will have a frame.
There's no need to put a 1" x 3" on the bottom since it won't be seen.
On the two side pieces, only one end will be mitered. The other
end will have a straight cut.
5. Verify that the cuts are accurate, then glue
and clamp in place.
6. Once the glue is dry, use an electric sander to
smooth the edges where the 1 x 3 and the MDF meet.
7. If needed, use caulk to fill any small gaps on
the edges and where the mitered cuts meet.
8. Cut a second piece of MDF to fit inside the
"frame" on the headboard you just created. Make sure that there is
about a 1/4-inch clearance on the sides and the top for batting and
fabric.
9. On the smaller, unframed piece of MDF, mark the
placement of the buttons. Start by marking even, horizontal lines.
Then place marks on the horizontal lines for the equally spaced buttons.
(Lines have been computer enhanced on photo below.)
10. Verify that you like the spacing of the
buttons by placing the actual buttons on the MDF.
11. If you're satisfied with the placement of the
buttons, drill a hole at each mark.
12. On the framed MDF headboard, put a coat of
primer on the frame. Be sure to get into all of the corners, and
onto the MDF backing an inch or two to ensure complete coverage.
13. Once the primer has dried, follow up with a
coat of paint.
14. Cut a piece of 1-inch foam to the size of the
smaller MDF piece. (Tip: the best tool to use for cutting
foam is an electric turkey knife.) Foam can be pieced together if
needed.
15. Adhere the foam to the MDF using spray
adhesive, regular glue, craft glue, or hot glue. If you're using a
regular glue or craft glue, let it dry before moving to the next step.
16. Working on a large surface, such as the floor,
spread out the fabric (or vinyl/leather) with the right side facing
down. On top of the fabric, place two layers of polyester batting.
Then place the MDF, foam side down, on top of the batting.
17. Beginning in the middle of the top of the
headboard, pull the fabric taut, wrap it around to the back side
(the side facing up) of the MDF. Using a staple gun, secure
with one or two staples. Repeat in the middle of the bottom of
the headboard, and in the middle of each side. Continue
stapling each side, ensuring that you pull the fabric taut.
Staple to within about 3 inches of the corners.
18. To complete the corners, first trim the
fabric. This will ensure that you don't have to staple through
a tremendous bulk of fabric.
19. Pull the fabric in the middle and staple.
20. Then fold one of the sides over, covering
the first staple, and secure with a staple. Repeat with the
other side.
21. Cover the buttons according to the package
directions. (It is possible to cover these
buttons with vinyl. It takes a little more work, but it's
possible.)
22. Using a wood skewer, a screwdriver, or
another long, thin item, place it through the button hole in the MDF,
through the foam and batting. Using a Sharpie marker, place a
dot where the skewer hits the fabric. Using a Sharpie marker,
place a dot on the front of the headboard to mark the buttonhole.
Repeat until all of the buttonholes are marked on the front.
23. Cut a 12-inch length of drapery cord for
each button. Thread the cord through the eye on back of the
button, and tie a double knot in the end (A). Tie a single
knot around the eye of the button (B & C). Thread the other
end of the drapery cord through the needle (D).
24. Using the pen marks as guides, place the
needle through the face fabric and through the button hole in the
MDF.
25. Pull the cord taut to create a slight
indentation on the front with the button (A). Using a staple
gun, secure the cord with a staple. Use a hammer if necessary
to ensure that the staple is secure (B). Create a "switchback"
with the cord, and secure with another staple (C). Create
several more "switchbacks", securing each with a staple. Use a
minimum of five staples on each button, and hammer each staple
thoroughly if necessary to ensure that it is holding the cord
firmly.
26. Repeat this process until all buttons are
attached.
27. Place the upholstered MDF button side down
on the floor, and place the framed MDF on top, framed side down.
Once you've ensured that the upholstered piece is fitted properly
inside the "frame", use your drill (with a screwdriver bit) to
secure the two layers of MDF together with wood screws. Use 6
to 8 wood screws.
28. Your headboard is finished! Hang and
enjoy!
Click here to see my absolute favorite hardware for hanging
headboards, heavy artwork, and mirrors. Available at Lowe's and
online!
**Note: Because this headboard has two layers of MDF or
plywood, it will be HEAVY. Be CERTAIN
that the hanging hardware is installed into studs in
your wall.
Variations:
1. If you want a stained wood frame, use
real wood lumber (instead of primed MDF), and then add another
strip of decorative wood moulding around the outside of the
headboard to cover the MDF backing. It'll add an extra
decorative detail, and leave no MDF showing on the finished
headboard.
2. You can use any variation of tufting in
this project. A more traditional deep diamond tufting
would add a nice juxtaposition to the more contemporary frame.
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