Well, in all honesty, the bed frame isn’t completely finished. I was putting on the first coat of polyurethane last night at 10:00 while Matt was already in bed. I still need to do some fine sanding and add probably two more coats of polyurethane to even out the sheen. (You’ll see what I mean in the pictures.)
But for now, I’m calling this project finished. Here’s how it turned out!
If you missed the “how to” part of this project, you can check out those posts here:
After adding the decorative trim on Monday, the bed looked like this…
I was so scared to stain this bed frame because I made it out of pine, and quite frankly, I hate the way that pine takes stain. I almost always use Minwax stain in a dark color on pine, and even when I use wood conditioner, I always end up with heavy, unsightly orange and yellow grain. Even when I think I’ve chosen a relatively “clear” piece of wood, once that stain goes on, the heavy orange and yellow grain appears. And yet, I continued to try Minwax each time. (What’s the definition of insanity?)
To be honest, the only reason I kept using Minwax is because that’s what Home Depot carries, and I always shop at Home Depot. It’s just more convenient, there are two Home Depots in my city, and I’ve just always preferred it over Lowe’s.
But this time, I decided to try something different. Instead of Minwax, I used Rust-Oleum wood stain (which is available at Lowe’s) in one of their brand new colors called Carrington. And oh my goodness, it did the trick!! There’s none of that ugly yellow and orange grain in sight. And the most amazing thing is that I got this amazing color and coverage in just one coat.
I did still use wood conditioner. Just wanted to be sure that was clear.
Suffice it to say that I’m done with Minwax…for good. From now on, it’s Rust-Oleum wood stain for me even if it means a special trip to Lowe’s. Now let me emphasize, this is the only color of Rust-Oleum wood stain that I’ve used on pine, so I have absolutely no personal experience, and absolutely no idea, how the other colors would do on pine. But I know for sure that Carrington makes pine look like a million bucks. And it’ll look even better after I get all of the coats of poly on so that the sheen is completely even all over.
Now remember how I did the corners since I’m not a real woodworker with the proper tools?
And remember how I said that wood filler is a DIYer’s best friend when doing a building project like this? Case in point…
It’s truly amazing what wood filler and a rotary sander can do.
This is the side of the bed with the side window. In the sunlight, you can see what I mean about the sheen needing to be evened out with a couple more coats of polyurethane. I might wait until I build my headboard and do it all at the same time.
And here’s the other corner. Again, a beautiful example of the power of wood filler and a rotary sander for us non-professional, wannabe woodworkers who lack the fine skills and expensive tools.
I’m pretty darn happy with how it turned out!
Now to the main question…
How much did it cost?
The total cost of the bed frame was about $330.
There are two things that added to the cost that you could possibly leave out if you decide to build this bed and need to reduce the cost.
First, I had my heart set on pretty, curvy, turned feet. Those things add up pretty quickly. The four turned feet plus the mounting plates came in at about $50. If you want to avoid that cost, you can make your own legs out of 4″ x 4″ lumber, using a saw to taper the legs. That’s similar to what Kelly over at View Along The Way did when she built her upholstered bed, and they look great.
Second, I knew that I wanted a stained wood bed, so I purchased the Select Pine boards from Home Depot. They are really pretty, almost perfectly straight, incredibly smooth, and have less grain and no knot holes. They’re as perfect as lumber gets. And you pay quite a bit extra for that perfection. You can avoid that extra cost by using not-quite-so-perfect lumber, which isn’t a big deal at all if you prefer a painted bed over a stained bed. The lower grade pine will work just fine if you want to paint, and it’s quite easy to use wood filler and then sand down any imperfections before priming and painting the bed frame.
If I’ve left anything out and you have questions, just let me know in the comments!