Today I want to show you a very simple way to cut 280 inches of continuous bias for welt cord (also called piping cord) from 1/2 yard of fabric. If you have no idea what I’m talking about, don’t panic. Let me back up just a little bit.
Do you know what welt cord is? Perhaps you’ve heard it called piping? Even if you’ve never heard the term, you’ve surely seen welt cord.
Welt cord is that fabric-covered cord that is used on upholstery, slipcovers, and other projects like some duvet covers, pillows, headboards, etc. My favorite projects with welt cord tend to be upholstery and slipcovers that use a contrasting color on the welt cord, like this dark gray slipcovered chair with contrasting white welt cord from Custom Slipcovers By Shelley.
Welt cord can often take a project from looking like a DIY project done by a novice, to looking like an upscale professional-quality project.
Very often I see DIYers finding thrift store furniture that came with welt cord, and reupholstering it without the welt cord. I understand why they do that, especially if they haven’t been sewing for very long. Cutting all of those bias* strips for welt cord and sewing all of those strips of fabric together can seem overwhelming, tedious, and time-consuming. But I’m telling you, it’s not as bad as you think.
*Bias is fabric that is cut on the diagonal. You may have heard of, and even used, bias tape. These are strips of fabric that were cut on the diagonal and then folded and pressed. Cutting fabric on the diagonal allows the fabric strips to be a little stretchy, making it easier to use around curves and corners without bunching, gathering, and wrinkling.
The conventional way of making bias is to cut lots of diagonal strips from your fabric, and then sit at the sewing machine tediously sewing all of the individual strips together one by one to form one long single strip of fabric.
I hate using that method, and I will admit to leaving welt cord off of more than one project because I didn’t want to take the time to do all of that tedious work. But I have since learned a much easier way to make one long continuous bias strip that requires sewing only one single seam.
Here’s how it’s done…
Start with 1/2 yard of fabric. I used 55-inch-wide fabric. Open the fabric up so that it’s just a single layer with the selvages on the sides, and the cut edges on top and bottom.
Next I used a bias ruler, which is a ruler that is cut at a 45-degree angle on one end. Obviously, you don’t have to actually purchase a bias ruler. You could easily make something similar out of heavy cardboard, or even a piece of wood that is cut at a 45-degree angle on one end. Whatever you use needs to be about 2.5 inches wide.
Starting with the ruler lined up with the bottom left corner of the fabric, use a pen or pencil to mark off the strips. (I used chalk so that you could easily see my marks on the dark fabric. I wouldn’t recommend that you use chalk.)
Continue marking the strips until you reach the top right corner on the other end of the fabric. Then on the last marked line only, cut off the excess fabric.
Now you’re going to fold and pin the top and bottom cut edges together. This is where the magic happens! Take the bottom right corner, and fold it to meet the first line on the top edge. The join the first line on the bottom edge with the second line on the top edge. And so on. Second line on bottom to third line on top. Third line on bottom to fourth line on top.
This is very important! When you’re pinning the edges together, you want the two lines to meet along the area where your seam will be rather than meeting on the edge of the fabric.
For example, I was going to use a standard 5/8-inch seam to sew the fabric, so I made sure that the lines were touching 5/8-inch from the edges of the fabric.
With the two edges pinned together, the fabric will naturally want to twist.
Now you’ll sew the two edges together. Like I mentioned above, I used a 5/8-inch seam. (The zipper foot isn’t necessary at this point. That’s just what was on my machine at the time.)
With the seam sewn, the fabric will look all twisted and unruly.
So reach your hand through the middle and turn the fabric right side out, like this. See the seam on the diagonal? Perfect! See the continuous chalk line that goes around the entire length of the tube of fabric? Find the beginning of the continuous strip (which will be the first corner that you pinned before sewing the seam), and start cutting along the line.
And cut, and cut, and cut some more.
Until you reach the other end of the tube of fabric. What you’re left with is the long, continuous piece of bias that has already been pieced together. No more sitting at the sewing machine while tediously piecing together strip after strip after strip of fabric.
You’re welcome. 
And now, of course, you’re ready to use your bias strip however you wish! I admit that I have never even once in my life made bias tape. On the rare occasions that I use bias tape, I purchase the pre-made stuff. I’ve only ever cut bias for welt cord.
And speaking of welt cord, there are different kinds available. Below you’ll see the two different ones that are available at my local fabric store. The one on the left has a twisted look to it, and it costs about three times more than the one on the right. The one on the right looks more like tubes of cotton held together with a mesh of threads wrapped around the outside to create the cord.
If you know me at all, you’d probably expect me to use the cheap one, right? Not so. I much prefer the one on the left, even though it’s quite a bit more expensive. I prefer it because it has a consistent size (the one on the right has thicker spots and thinner spots), and the one on the left feels heavier, more substantial, and more durable. Overall, I find that it’s easier to work with and the finished cord has a much nicer, smoother look.
To make the welt cord, find the end of the bias strip, and sandwich the cord into the strip.
Now using the zipper foot on your machine, sew the fabric together as close to the cord as possible without actually sewing on the cord.
Be sure that you’ve sandwiched the cord into the fabric so that the seams are facing the inside.
And when you get to a seam, simply open up the two sides (this reduces bulkiness), place the cord over the seam, and fold the fabric over the cord.
And when you’ve sewn the length of the cord, you’re left with this beautiful covered welt cord, ready and waiting to be used on your project!
Now when I’m using the welt cord on a part of the upholstery where it will be attached by stapling, I use the welt cord as is. However, if I’m going to be sewing the welt cord, I do this one extra step to ensure that the lip on the cord is the right size for my seam.
I take a piece of cardstock (or a piece of junk mail) and cut a short strip that is the width of the seam I will be using on my project (in this case, 5/8-inch wide), and use it as a guide to trim any excess fabric. Again, this extra step is something I do only if I’ll be sewing with the cord.
And that’s it! Now you’re ready to add welt cord to your project!
I used this particular welt cord on my dining chair makeover. Tomorrow I’ll show you the step-by-step process for upholstering dining chairs using welt cord.
Hey there! Thanks so much for visiting! :-)
I'm an interior decorator-turned-blogger, and a DIY fanatic. My blog is where I share 
Omg. It seems so hard ….
Alex @ Revedecor’s Latest Post..Sweden architecture has never looked better
Alex, it’s really not difficult at all. I think if you were to take it step by step and do it once, it would all “click” and become very clear, and from then on it would be very simple for you.
Okay, I’ve been sewing for a zillion years and that is the most brilliant explanation and technique I have ever seen! BRILLIANT, I tell you!!
Thanks for the tutorial! Can’t wait to give it a shot on an ottoman I’ve been trying to sell because reupholstering it properly was not an appealing option. I can’t wait to try it now!
Diane, I’ve sewn since I was in high school, and I only recently learned this technique. If only I had learned about it 20 years ago!!! Better late than never, I suppose.
Have fun working on your ottoman!
Christi- This is a great, very clear tutorial! I’ve sewn all my life but had not made piping for quite some time. I searched the web a few months ago for instructions to jog my memory and found nothing so straight forward. I have no idea how tags or what ever works, but if you can make your post come up for those searching not only welting…but piping (the term that must have been used in my sewing classes many decades ago! Maybe that’s regional?)
It really isn’t that hard – and so worth taking the time to do. Thank you so much!!!!
Thanks for the tip, Heather! I’ll definitely add “piping” to my key words. I’ve heard it called that as well. In fact, that’s what I’ve called it most of my life. It was only in the last few years that I realized most pros call it “welt”. I tend to use the terms interchangeably now.
Heather, Christi is in my state and I’ve also only ever heard piping! I think welt might be the technical term, since I’m pretty sure it’s a play on “warp and weft”, because you need both to get welt.
That.is.GENIUS! After a grueling experience, I have been foregoing the welting because of all the work, but this is such a great tutorial, it makes me want to try another project with it!! Thanks for such a wonderful explanation and step by step pictures. Love all the pictures you include in your posts! Sharon
Sharon @ LilikoiJoy’s Latest Post..Whose A Good Girl?! This Bitch
Thank you so much for the straight forward photos and explanation. I have two chairs sitting in my basement waiting for me to figure out how to make piping. Which is the term I learned many many years ago from my grandmother who was a seamstress.
I read somewhere about using cotton clothesline for the piping. Was thinking about checking Walmart today to see if it’ll work…thought it would be a lot less expensive. I’ll let you know if I think it’ll work!
Oh my gosh…absolutely brilliant!
Your explanation is so clear and I can’t wait to do this!!
Amazing!!! Wish I had known that many years ago. And your instructions are so clear. Thanks.!
Thank you!!! I’m going to stash this post away for when I get brave enough to try it! I think it’s gonna be soon!
Christine Leahy’s Latest Post..BLOGGER BE BETTER { Printable }
I could have used this on saturday! I did an ottoman with the same kind of piping. I totally agree with you that piping can make the world of difference and that after re upholstering quite a bit of things with welt, it’s much better to get the more expensive welt! great tutorial, I’ll be trying it soon, thanks!
OH MY MUFFINS! Thank you SO MUCH! Yep, I’m one of those who just skipped the welt cord — but no more! I almost can’t wait to make some!
This gives me hope and inspiration, Thank you, thank you!
Eileen’s Latest Post..Picnic, Anyone?????
Wow! Thanks for this post! I am a beginner sewer and was curious about a few things and all of a sudden all the posts I read have something new about sewing that I didn’t know. Very helpful!! Thank you so much!!!
Runt’s Latest Post..I want to…
Thank you so much!! I watched a friend do this once but she wasn’t able to explain to me how. She had a name for this method, but I can’t remember exactly what it was, something like fascia?? I too have searched for this simple way to do this, but came of lacking, so thank you for posting this!!
This is a great tutorial. It’s quite definitive and I liked that you explained it step by step. I understand what you mean about the job looking unprofessional without welt cords. I did some cushions recently and added some welt cord around the edges. They were the best cushions I’ve made. They look store bought.
Anne @diy projects’s Latest Post..Home Improvement Ideas 4 Kids
Thanks for the tutorial!! I am okay at basic sewing but never really understood how to cord something. I’m totally gonna try it now.
Thanks!
Stephanie’s Latest Post..Restyled Lamp
Thank you so very much for sharing this! I tried this technique for the first time and it worked like a charm. It was much easier than the traditional way and saved me so much time. Thanks again Kristi
This is the coolest sewing tip I think I have ever seen! I HATE making welting, and I have been doing it the traditional way. If I am going to go to the trouble of making a slipcover, I always make welting too, it really sets the piece off, but I dread it. I am going to be making some soon, as one of my slipcover projects has now jumped up in line! I love that you use an old cardboard tube to wrap it around too, I always wad mine up and throw it in a drawer, only to be frustrated with how it looks when I take it out. (I often work harder, not smarter!). I am pinning this so I can refer back to this awesome tutorial. Thank you! Once again, you have made something in my life so much easier!
Karen’s Latest Post..Link Party #69 and Mes Préférés!
Great tip. Thanks. I will definately use this to make bias and welt strips.
Kristi, Wow! This looks really neat! Will the technique work with a larger piece of fabric — say 45″ or 54″? Or, do I need to use multiple 1/2-yd. sections?
Hi Cynthia~
I’m sure you could use larger fabric. Just depends on how much weld cord you need.
I need to use this technique to make piping/cording for a doctoral graduation robe. Thank you for posting this tutorial. I have one question: You stated
“This is very important! When you’re pinning the edges together, you want the two lines to meet along the area where your seam will be rather than meeting on the edge of the fabric. For example, I was going to use a standard 5/8-inch seam to sew the fabric, so I made sure that the lines were touching 5/8-inch from the edges of the fabric.”
But the pictures look like the fabric is meeting on the cut edges. What did I miss?
I was just analyzing this myself. I’m sure she’ll reply, but what I think she means is your “chalk” lines have to be touching where your thread will sew through, not necessarily on the ends of the fabric edge. That way when you are cutting on the chalk line, you line will continue straight at the seam, and all will be straight. I hope this helps! I haven’t made it this way yet, but plan on practicing on some muslin to get the technique before using an important piece of fabric.
And to someone who commented about cotton roping from Walmart for welting, I must say that has been what I’ve been using for a years now. It’s pretty consistent in width, and is very economical. Happy sewing to all!
Wow, sending huge pats on your back thru the internet! This is the most incredible tutorial! I make a ton of welting, traditional, frustrating method way. No more! Can’t wait to get home and try it! Thanks is not sufficient, but thank you!!!!!!
You’re right … I’ve been intimidated by furniture upholstery projects that have welting. There’s a chair waiting in my basement right now. It has a box cushion and welt cording, and I have been simply scared of it. You’ve given me a bit of confidence that I can tackle it. And, hey, the chair only cost me $4, so if it’s a disaster, I’m just out $4 and a few supplies!
Hollie @ I’m Busy Procrastinating’s Latest Post..IKEA’s Stockholm Rand Rug obsoleted???
Great tutorial ! Very well explained ! I think that the term PIPING is used on clothing while WELTING is used on furniture and draperies . . . in any event, it IS the same thing and is made the same way. I have never seen the idea to sew the material together BEFORE cutting ! LOVE that ! I can’t tell you HOW many times I have sat at my sewing machine trying to piece the strips together in the right way ! hahaha ! Brilliant !
I DO have to add that the width of the strips will be determined by the size of the cording material to be inserted inside . . . for example, I recently made two large 26″ square pillows and I used 1 inch diameter cord material (in order to be balanced, the large size of the pillows dictated that I use a MUCH larger welting than what Kristi has shown). To determine the width of the strips you will need, use a cloth measuring tape and measure the circumference (around the outside) of the cord and add 1.25 inches (for the seam allowance of 5/8 inch). For instance, a 1 inch diameter cord will measure about 3 1/8 inches AROUND . . . then add 1.25 inches for the seam (5/8 x 2) . . . for a total of 4 3/8 inches wide strips.
I hope this helps and has not muddied the great tutorial ! Thanks !
I have made yards and yards of bias strips this way; it’s great. However, when I was using it for welting, I glued it with fabric glue rather than sewing. It just made it easier and quicker.
You are my idol! I can’t believe this works…. and I was able to pull it off!!! Thank you!