Planning The Landscaping Outside Our Bedroom Door
I woke up this morning thinking about our bedroom door. As I’m working on our bedroom, I’ll obviously need to get that door finished as well. That means building steps outside the door so that the door is actually usable. And then I started thinking about exactly how I want the landscaping to look. We’re in October now, and according to what I’ve read online, October through December is a perfect time to plant shrubs in this zone. (We’re in zone 8b.)
I’ve done a few mockups of the door in the past using ChatGPT, but those were just general ideas.
I won’t be pouring concrete steps. I’ll build wood steps to coordinate with the wood front porch. And the top landing will have to be taller to be level with the door opening.
But what I’m really wondering is what to plant in the corner. In that ChatGPT mockup, it put a little cone-shaped evergreen. I love that, but I want something much taller. I’m thinking that it needs to be four to six feet tall. It can’t be something that grows wide since it will be in a corner (not too close to the house, but still in a corner). And this area only gets direct sunlight early in the morning, and then remains shaded the rest of the day.
On our landscaping plan, the landscape designer had suggested an oak leaf hydrangea for that area.
I love oak leaf hydrangeas, but I definitely won’t be able to use one in that area.
That plan was made when there was a window there. Since oak leaf hydrangeas can grow to be 6-10 feet wide, that’s not going to work with a door there. The maximum amount of space I’ll have between the house and the edge of the steps is five feet.
Those four plants that he suggested to the left of the oak leaf hydrangea are Dwarf Burford Hollies.
That’s a beautiful shrub, but the mature width on that one is eight to ten feet, so I don’t think that will work, either.
And then the row of plants in front of those on the landscape plan are Japanese Boxwoods.
That might be my best option. I already know boxwoods grow very well on that side of our house because we have a ton of it on the side of the house. I don’t know if it’s specifically Japanese Boxwood or some other variety, but I’ve never touched it, and it’s thriving. The Japanese Boxwood grows to five to six feet in height, and four to six feet in width, but it can be pruned to keep it smaller.
I’m so out of my element when it comes to plants. If I have an area of expertise, it’s interiors. That’s where I feel comfortable and confident. But once I step outside and start thinking about plants, I feel so unsure of myself. I walk through a nursery and feel overwhelmed and unable to make decisions.
But maybe if I can just take this first step and buy a couple of plants to go around that bedroom door, get them planted, and then keep them alive, it will give me confidence to actually start doing some landscaping around the front of our house. It definitely needs landscaping! We’ve been in our house for 12 years now, and I’ve never planted a single plant anywhere. I really would like to change that, but plants make me very nervous. My track record with keeping plants alive is atrocious.
So if you have any other ideas of what I can use around that door, please let me know! Again, I’m in Zone 8b, and that door only gets direct sunlight in early morning. That corner between the house and where the steps will be is about six feet square. So, plant people, let me know what you think! What will be easy for this non-plant person to keep alive?
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Addicted 2 Decorating is where I share my DIY and decorating journey as I remodel and decorate the 1948 fixer upper that my husband, Matt, and I bought in 2013. Matt has M.S. and is unable to do physical work, so I do the majority of the work on the house by myself. You can learn more about me here.
Just a thought … I feeling overwhelmed by the plant decisions. It might be worth hiring someone to help you with the landscaping. Sure it’s just a couple plants for now, but it’s a good test to see if you like them as a company and you can talk to them about your long range plans. Yes, it’ll cost some for their service, but if they do it right, it may actually save you money in the long run.
My first thought for the corner where you want some height is a sky pencil holly. They are very tall and skinny, ending up 6-8′ tall and 2-3′ wide, max.
I second the pencil holly. The roots don’t grow out more than two to three times the root ball so it shouldn’t damage your foundation like some of the other shrubs that might get you the look you’re after. It also will need some shade in your planting zone so only having morning sun should be okay for it.
I’ve never seen a nice looking sky pencil holly in person. Either the top gets sparse and burnt or the bottom loses its foliage and looks bad. I don’t find this to be an attractive plant at all.
How about hostas?
You /can/ cut back Burford Hollies to keep them reasonable. We have some planted beside my parents’ cemetery crypt….but (ahem), I live in another state, and I do have to visit in the late winter and aggressively trim it. And I had to pull them out (with a truck) when they were about ten years old because they had gotten way too big. Nevermind. 🙂
With the sunlight you’re talking about in that corner… Hostas do well in shaded afternoon areas, with morning light – especially where Summer temps can get very hot. they come in many color variations; greens, dual greens, green and white, green and burgundy/purple, etc… and some even flower lovely, on stalks from the center of the bush.
I second this. Also, you have to keep in mind that light may be different when the seasons change as the sun is lower. It’s a good time to start paying attention to which areas of the yard are getting what kind of light, and the seasonal differences you notice. It will save you money and time in the long run.
When in doubt, get some cheap pots and try out plants that way first. You can move them around if they don’t seem to be doing well and plant them permanently if you find they like the area. I would wait until after winter if you use pots. Also, look around at your neighbors’ houses to see what they have done and what works well. You can always drive around nice neighborhoods or city gardens/commercial spaces with professional landscaping and take pics. Google Images will be able to identify plants and then you can look up care and maintenance.
It will grow tall really fast. Then you can keep it trimmed to the size you want with electric (or not) trimming shears. We had them in MN for 30 years. Reached 20 feet tall. The deer ate the bottoms off 🥴
I have a beautiful tree like shrub( Houston, TX) that grows to at least 6 ft. But is easy to trim back. The common name is banana shrub aka magnolia figo. Thrives in partial shade, very easy and hardy. It has beautiful magnolia like flowers in the spring which are very fragrant like a banana. I think it would be an excellent choice for a corner. Zones 8-10. I have several burford hollies. They grow well and can be kept pruned back easily. You can’t go wrong with the boxwoods either. There is also a beautiful tree like holly – Savannah holly.
I’m in southern Wisconsin (zone5b), so take my advice with a grain of salt! 😜I had an oak leaf hydrangea that grew up and over a trellis. They grow very slowly, think 3-4 years before they bloom, but then grow a bit quicker after that. If you think you might put up a trellis/pergola, this would be a perfect spot for it
I would look into native plants for your area. They are the easiest to keep alive and if you have a native nursery nearby, you can show them pictures and they would be thrilled to help you pick.
I would second this. Ladybird Johnson Center has a plant finder on their website, and if you don’t care about it being straight species, there are native cultivars. Look for natives that grow in partial shade and the type of soil, like dry or medium. Right plant, right site and it will be happy, requiring little maintenence
Taller plants in back, shorter plants in front. And don’t forget natural mulch to keep out weeds!
There are a lot of tall but skinny trees/shrubs. Fineline buckthorns, North Pole arbs, junipers, etc. Talk to your local nursery for what size of plant you need and they’ll have good recommendations. If you’re open to pruning (as you suggested for the boxwood) go for a hydrangea anyway. They come in aaaaallll sizes and if you need to prune annually to keep it’s size in check it’s manageable at once or twice a year (it’s once a year for my zone but I’m assuming it might be twice for you.)
I think a small Japanese maple would look great there! There are many kinds and I think you could find one the right size for that area.
This is what I was thinking too! They have dwarf varieties that stay small.
Yes…came to suggest this also.
I had a green direct um I saw at Ameraflora in 1992. When I moved I wanted to take it with me! It has the most wonderful fall color
Ok…that’s green DISECTUM…The leaves are deeply cut!
Yes, and they require shade, a perfect idea, as long as you purchase carefully as to size at maturity!
Sorry, this was in response to Shannon’s comment about Japanese Maples!
I recommend Sky Pencil Hollies, Hinoki Cypress, or Fragrant Tea Olive trees. Do a little research and see which of those seems like the best fit for you!
Ooooh, if you want a bit more of a challenge, you could try a cold-hardy variety of abutilon.
https://xeraplants.com/genus/abutilon/
If I don’t know what kind of plant I have, I take a cutting to our local nursery. They are very helpful and they have all kinds of ideas of what to use, how tall and wide things get, etc.
Arborvitae – hands down!
Sting arborvitae remains very skinny but gets 20 ft tall. https://www.provenwinners.com/plants/thuja/sting-arborvitae-thuja-occidentalis
North Pole arborvitae gets 5ft wide and 15 feet tall https://www.provenwinners.com/plants/thuja/north-pole-arborvitae-thuja-occidentalis
Both of these are hardy in your zone and require very little maintenance once established.
Not an expert, but I’ve found that plants that tolerate experiments, do well. If not, you learn & move on. I’d get the boxwood on the plan. If budgeting and going for timing to establish, it can be smaller than on the plan (also easier to winterize/protect while learning). You can get lucky and selectively buy big at a nursery and split into multiples (Ugly Duckling House did this with boxwood in GA). If you want to mess with propagating, maybe get a rose or hydrangea you keep in a big pot. This contains it and raises it. Then move to where it should go if it does too well. If not have fun filling the pot differently.
My frost-proof gardenias I got 1/2 gallon size in 2021, all planted properly by 2023 (another story, but survived in the pot) grew to bigger than gallon size by now, 1/2 as much the first year. My three issues were deer (attracted to the flowers), weather (they do better once established), and bad placement (a crepe myrtle is too close). Also echo the landscaping person suggestion. They end up doing the regular tasks, share tips/advice, and you can enjoy the parts you like until you can put more time to it.
Boxwoods & hydrangeas are classics! Your are in a good zone, you have tree shade- the sky is the limi- enjoy !
As I understand it, the window was replaced with a door for emergency egress. If Matt is in a wheelchair why would you build steps rather than a ramp?🧐
My thoughts too! A ramp design might chance that corner completely.
She has a plan to have a retractable ramp either under or close to the steps so she can place it there quickly for Matts use.
Most nurseries, (unlike a home depot garden center), have people who can tell you about plants. If you go to one and ask someone to help you, they can show you plants that meet your needs. And most of them will guarantee for the next season. Save receipts etc.
I love the nursery by us, run by a young couple, who are the best!
If you want a flower, Haas Halo hydrangea grows 4-5 feet tall and 3-5 feet wide, doesn’t droop, likes shade, and mine didn’t die despite me forgetting about them and only watering them twice this summer!
I’ve had a variety of Cleyera growing at the corner of my home for 25+ years. I don’t do anything to it and yet it has grown to be a wonderful shrub.
Most varieties requirements are:
Light Needs: Full Sun to Part Shade
USDA Zones: 7a – 10b
Mature dimensions: 15-20′ high x 5-6′ wide
I adore boxwood but here in southeastern MI they have been decimated by box tree moths. Most of my neighbors boxwood shrubs died. I have two that we’ve been spraying and they don’t look great. I don’t know if you have those in TX but you may want to check into it. What type of tree/shrub is in your landscape plan to the right of the window-now-door into the bedroom? Would that work? I would definitely want something tall enough to hide the meter. Landscapers usually plant a tree at the corner of houses to soften the corner. I would call the landscaper who drew up your beautiful plans and ask for suggestions and may have them install the landscaping on the front of your home. I know it’s expensive but they know what will grow.
Hey! I’m a plant (and soil) snob and live an hour south of you. I’m also from the Willamette Valley. Both are zoned 8b. In Texas, we use the plant hardiness zone as more of a loose suggestion. Our summers here and the frequency of our measurable rain are nothing like NW Oregon. We also can’t grow blueberries in Central Texas but they thrive in NW Oregon which would indicate that Oregon has acidic soil where Central Texas has alkaline soil. Some plants can tolerate a wide range in soil ph and some absolutely cannot. I suggest you drive around town and look for plants that fit your criteria. Don’t drive through fancy neighborhoods either as they likely have professional yard people. Take pictures. Become friends with your county Master Gardeners.
All that being said, I highly recommend Texas natives. I’m in a similar situation as you and will try a Texas Star Hibiscus this fall. You could also try a narrow freestanding trellis with a climbing well-behaved vine. It would give you the narrow but tall look you’re going for. Get it in your head that landscaping is just like your renovations- If you don’t like the plant (or you kill it), just try something different. Good luck!
Please take it from me. Choose something that stays shore and doesn’t have to be trimmed. Not to be negative but you will grow older before you know it. Trimming is hard when you are older.
It will be beautiful whatever you do!❤️❤️❤️
In my opinion, if you only get sun there in the morning, I would think about putting in a trellis, and plant Clematis in front of it. They climb the trellis with little to no help, and are low to no maintenance, come in many colors, and you can even plant two different colors that may bloom at different times of the year. Most Boxwoods are awesome low care shrubs, but be sure to read the dimensions, as there are many different varieties, and some are tiny, some large and fat! Most can be pruned, but I don’t think you want that job. You are more likely to be inclined to plant and forget. Another alternative would be to get a decorative item, maybe a statue or an architectural salvage item for the corner. A fluted concrete pillar about 5-6 ft. tall could be cool, and you could put a potted plant that loves shade on top, that trails down. I always take a photo of the spot with me to a nursery (not a home improvement store!) and get their suggestions, based on my ability to care for it down the road. They are much more talented on advising you than HD or Lowes would be! And they have more to choose from in all price ranges.
Well, it may seem like sacrilege, but I have a black thumb and finally got some faux plants. They’ve improved a lot.
I hate hollies, they are pretty but you will get stuck every time you have to trim them and when you come out the door if they get out of control. Say NO to hollies 🙂 Anything that is being suggested that you need to prune to keep to your 4-5 feet wide and 5-6 feet tall requirement should not be considered. Pruning is an art. If done correctly the plant looks great; if not well the plant can look pretty sad. And pruning is different for different plants. And has to be done at the right time. You don’t want to deal with pruning. Trimming the top and sides of a plant with trimming shears is not pruning, you can handle that. I would stick with the boxwoods. They come in so many different sizes that you should be able to find one that meets your size requirements. Remember, when planting whatever you decide on don’t plant it so that it looks proportional the back and side of the steps now. Allow for the recommended distance from the solid structures based on the mature size of the plant. It will make a huge difference planting correctly versus incorrectly. Last thing, all the suggestions for talking to someone knowledgeable at the local nursery is a great idea. If you find a plant that will work and they don’t have it, they can order it. Don’t settle for another size that is close. Good luck!
Why don’t you take a photo of the area/mock up of it and go to a nursery (not Home Depot or other big box store)? They should be able to give you suggestions for plants that would work well for that area, the sunlight it gets, etc….They are usually very good at making suggestions and can even tell you what you need to do when planting whatever shrub/plants you decide to purchase.
Honestly, we’ve planted many, many different plants over the years. I think sometimes it’s more trial and error to find something that works for you and your yard and it can be fun. Don’t be intimidated by it. Just have fun and realize that even if everything says a plant should work for your situation, it doesn’t mean it absolutely will.
Lisa Earth Girl here, I would suggest Nellie Stevens Holly, arborvitea, or boxwood. All of them would need clipping to kee in check once they reach your desired size, but will stay green year round. I have all of those in my personal garden, and they are all very strong and gorgeous!
If you don’t mind brutally chopping plants in the middle of summer to control height, I’d go with a Turk’s Cap or beautyberry in the corner. Natives, grow easily, like shade, and if they get too tall, chop them back an they just grow again. For something shorter, inland sea oats are nice but don’t get very tall or salvinia coccinia grows well in shade. I’d be very tempted to do shorter plants in front and then put a scuptural piece in the corner, or wind spinner or something. I really don’t like plants too close to my house anyway since they can serve as an easy path for bugs and vermin to access inside.
I would say in Texas: No to Hydrangeas (they will get big if kept in shady areas); No to boxwoods (been there and done that in KY)…bugs, moths, trimming; No to Hostas (really will be too hot in Texas); maybe the small miniature shrubs you show in picture (with sweet flowers); I HATE trimming. We have lived in a house for 25+ years and changed everyone of our shrubs at the front 5 times. We keep them about 5 years, then they start getting big; and we pull them and start all over.
Don’t experiment with small pots; it won’t be worth it. Get a good plan in hand and just do one side of the house at a time, following the guidelines for finished width and height. I’ve seen so many huge trees planted smack in the front yard just a couple of feet in front of a window; too big for the area, shading the house, and smack dab in the middle of a sight line.
I think the North Pole arborvitae someone else mentioned would be an excellent choice. Low maintenance and should stay contained in your space requirements. Plus a pretty tree to decorate at Christmas!
I would suggest you go to a well-respected nursery and ask them for suggestions. We have a wonderful nursery in our area that has very knowledgeable staff that are always helpful. We have explained our landscaping issues to them and they give us wonderful suggestions.
I did say it in another part, but “Right plant, right site!” is the way to go! In your case, shrubs and perennials that like partial shade, 6 feet and less with a 6″ spread, that tolerate your kind of soil. Low maintenence means little watering and minimal to no yearly pruning but you may need to prune some years, and thinning out plants. Mulch (natural) like shredded wood is a must to keep out weeds. If you’re unsure about your dirt, bring a cup to the nursery and they can tell you about it. If water absorbs quickly it, it might be dry soil. Pour water on it and see how long it takes to absorb. A local garden center, especially if they do landscaping will be a wonderful resource, and they can recommend plants!
I guess boxwood might be OK as long as it keeps it’s shape. You could try juniper. Maybe Hydrangea as long as it’s the southern kind. Maybe dwarf holly, like the yaupon kind. If it doesn’t need much pruning. Pavonia (a perennial) aka rock rose is native and has pretty hot pink flowers that bloom long. American Beautyberry is pretty but might get too big. There’s a cool plant called Flame Acanthus with trumpet like red flowers you might like. Hummingbirds like it. Natives will also draw butterflies and bees!
I found this list of good TX plants, (pdf)
https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/5/2010/10/plantselection.pdf
Flame Acanthus:
https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=anquw
Pavonia
https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=PALA13
Good luck!
If they work in your zone, Lonicera sempervirens – honeysuckle VINE on an obelisk (the shrubs are all non-native and can be very invasive in some areas). The vine is native to the US, can handle some shade, and doesn’t get huge. Hummingbirds love them. Otherwise, some Clematis can also handle shade. The obelisk can be as tall as you want it, gives height immediately, can be painted an accent color if needed, and vines are easy to prune with less robust roots. That’s an important consideration that close to the house. If it ends up being too tight or shady, I’d look for a sculpture and plant around the base of it, or a tall plant hanger (check out Wild Birds Unlimited and their pole system) but you’d need to water pots more often. Roof overhangs usually make those spots very dry too. I think trees and shrubs are going to be a challenge in that spot if you want to use that door. You could make a little patio garden with height further from the foundation, but I wouldn’t plant anything woody in that little space.
I didn’t see in your post if you wanted something evergreen. Some of the suggestions were good, but not everything suggested stays green all year, plus there is the Texas heat to consider. I don’t know who did your original landscape plan, but Westview Nursery has been around forever, and I don’t think they would steer you wrong.
Hi Kristi! Have you considered building your deck/landing all the way to the side wall, and then just putting a large potted plant or shrub of some kind on the deck in the corner? That way you could easily control the plant’s growth, plus you wouldn’t have to worry about root intrusion or too much water near your foundation. With the amount of shade you’re describing, the ground may never dry out in that corner. That part of the house has a pier and beam foundation, if I’m not mistaken, which are already susceptible to moisture issues. I would be hesitant to add any significant amount of water there, especially if it’s mostly shaded.
What about a tea olive? It takes pruning really well. The blooms are not showy but it smells wonderful!! Grows in sun or shade.
I live in zone 8a, I do NOT have a green thumb, and I have a couple of options you could look into.
My number one choice would be a camellia. They are green year round, they flower in the winter, and they come in a variety of colors and sizes. (Ours has flowers similar to this one, and they are so beautiful: https://www.soonerplantfarm.com/plant/camellia-sea-foam). They can be pruned pretty heavily if they need to be. We planted ours, watered for a little while, and then they just took off on their own. We even dug them up and replanted them when we moved with no problems.
Next, I love tea olives. They aren’t very showy, but they are also evergreen, and when they bloom (which seems to be whenever they want), they smell AMAZING. They are also easy to prune and grow. Again, we planted them, watered them, and they are just growing. They don’t grow too fast, so they don’t get out of control, but they fill a space nicely.
No one is giving you any native options, so here are two shade-tolerant, tall, native shrubs you could fit in that space: Pagoda Dogwood (Cornus alternifolia) and Winterberry Holly (Ilex verticillata).
Natives are really, really important. I can’t stress this enough. Please do your part too!
Natives are great for people who don’t want to ‘baby’ their plants – natives have evolved to be *perfectly* suited to your local conditions! They need some mild attention/care during their first season or two, but then can largely be ignored after that. Though of course they’ll look a little better with regular trims/mulching/etc.
I’d suggest you find a reputable local nursery and tell them what you want (not Home Depot/Lowes). More and more local nurseries are carrying a good selection of natives these days!
If I were living in your house, I would keep it simple around that bedroom door including the exterior paint, which I would paint the same as the other external trim. If I understand the purpose of the door, you and your husband will treat it more like an emergency exit than a main entrance. If isn’t meant to be a main entry, I would want the focus to remain on my front door and front porch. Simple plants would help this “emergency exit” blend into the facade of the house, whereas more elaborate landscaping would highlight the door and/or make the door a competing focal point to the front door. I would choose landscaping that would almost treat the door like a window.