DIY Concrete Faux Stone Facade, Part 3 — Pouring The Faux Concrete “Stones”

I spent yesterday testing out the best way to pour my faux concrete “stones” for the front porch skirting. This is my first time ever to work with concrete, so I was still feeling a bit unsure about my plan. But I had watched many videos about making molds and pouring concrete, so I felt ready to forge ahead.

If you’ve been following along, you know that I had gotten as far as creating my own silicone textured mats using the actual stones on the front of our house and then turning those silicone mats into molds that I could use to pour my own concrete stones for the skirting.

I tried three different times before I had success, so let me tell you about the failures and what went wrong before I show you the success.

Test #1 — Aircrete faux stones with a quick-cure concrete — FAIL

I was so focused on this process that I forgot to take pictures of this first attempt. But my original idea was to make my own aircrete (which is about 50% lighter than concrete) to make my stones. I came across this very helpful video showing a very easy recipe for DIY aircrete using items you probably have in your kitchen (especially if you’ve ever done a ketogenic diet).

My one issue with the process he shares is that he uses plain Portland cement to make the aircrete, and Portland cement takes a long time to cure. I was hoping to find a way to make aircrete with a quick-drying concrete formula instead of the very slow-curing Portland cement so that I could get through several pours with each of my six molds in one day.

Before I tested this, I left a comment on that video to ask if he thought it would work. He seems to know a great deal about chemistry, while I’m very ignorant about the topic. I wasn’t sure if the extra ingredients in a quick-dry formula would negatively interact or counteract the aircrete formula. He actually responded within minutes and said that he thought it might work as long as the quick-dry mix doesn’t have an aggregate in it.

Unfortunately, as far as I can tell, there’s no such thing as a quick-dry cement mix with no aggregate. The closest thing I could find at my local Home Depot is Rapid Set Cement All, which uses a super fine sand as an aggregate. So I decided to give it a try.

Rapid Set Cement All, when mixed with water according to the instructions, sets within 15 minutes and is supposed to cure in about an hour. But again, that’s when it’s mixed with plain water. But I tried it mixed with the aircrete liquid formula from the video.

It didn’t work. Or I guess it would be more accurate to say that it probably would have worked had I given it more time to cure, but giving it two hours to dry, it had only reached the consistency of a firm moist beach sand, kind of like the consistency that you would want to build a sandcastle on the beach. So the aircrete liquid formula definitely cancelled out the quick-cure feature of the Rapid Set Cement All, and that’s the exact feature that I needed.

So at that point, I had two options left. I could use the exact aircrete formula using plain Portland cement, which would allow me to pour six stones per day, or I could just use the Rapid Set Cement All and mix according to the instructions (i.e., using plain water) and be able to pour several stones per mold per day. I decided to go with the second option.

Test #2 — Rapid Set Cement All with a textured back — FAIL

On my next attempt, I followed the instructions to mix the Rapid Set Cement All, which is about one part water to four parts of Cement All. I mixed it in a very small batch, just enough to fill my mold, and then poured it into the mold. It began to set very quickly (in under 10 minutes) so I was very hopeful.

But since I knew I was going to be adhering these faux stones to the skirting area of my front porch, I thought it might help the adhesion to add some texture to the back of the stone. I did this using my utility knife, and I just barely ran the blade over the surface of the concrete.

That ended up being a mistake. And then I made a second rookie mistake, again, because I’ve never worked with concrete before. I gave it the hour that the instructions say, and it felt very hard to the touch. But I noticed it also still felt very hot, meaning the chemical reaction that cures concrete was still happening. But I was anxious, so I ignored that and tried to demold the stone.

As I was removing the stone from the mold, it snapped in two right down the line shown by the arrow below.

Since it was ruined, I decided to test out the strength of the Cement All at that point, so I picked up the two big pieces and dropped them onto the concrete, and it continued to break. From the front, it looked like random breaks.

But these were not random breaks. When I turned the pieces over, I could see that the breaks on the backs were exactly along those texture lines that I had made on the back.

You can see here that I didn’t even make those texture lines very deep at all, but they definitely affected the integrity of the concrete.

So this was a very helpful test, and a very important learning experience for a concrete newbie like me. The first important lesson is that you never remove concrete from a mold if it’s still hot to the touch, even if you’ve waited the amount of time the instructions say to wait. As long as it’s still hot, the concrete is still curing. You have to wait until that heat has completely dissipated before removing it from the mold. The second important lesson is that you shouldn’t mess with the back, probably especially on something as thin as 3/4″ faux stones.

With my new knowledge gained from this second failed attempt, I was ready to try a third time.

Test #3 — Rapid Set Cement All — SUCCESS!

Again, I mixed up a very small batch of the Cement All and poured it into my mold. And by the way, before pouring the concrete into the mold, I sprayed the mold with WD-40 to act as a mold release. And this time, I left the back alone.

And this time, I waited until it not only felt really hard, but it also felt cool to the touch. I’m not sure how long that took because I got busy on something else. I would guess it took about an hour-and-a-half or two hours. Then I removed the small end piece of my mold and removed the stone.

This was a success! For this test, I used two of my molds and poured two stones, and they both came out great. I think the WD-40 caused some discoloration, but since I’ll be priming and painted these stones, I’m not concerned about the color at all.

I was so excited when I pulled these two stones out of their molds and saw the finished result.

Other than the color, they looked just like they could fit right in with the stone on the front of our house.

Because of the discoloration, it’s a little difficult to get a good, accurate picture of the stones. You might just have to take my word for it. 😀 They look so good!

Now that I have my process down, I need to set up an assembly line in my carport with all six of my molds so that I can pour six at a time every two hours.

I have one more week to work on outdoor projects before I turn my attention to the storage room in our bedroom suite. I’m really hoping that I can get the front porch finished in that time!

More About Our House Exterior & Yard

see all exterior &
yard diy projects

read all exterior &
yard blog posts

 

 

Similar Posts

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

5 Comments

  1. Looks dandy! You are a better paint expert than me but…my overthinking head is not focusing well. The current thoughts are, Concrete is porous like grout, it’ll soak up WD-40. See if you can paint those before adhering to the wall and ensure the WD-40 doesn’t add too much oil to the the fresh surface for painting. You may just need a degreaser step to for paint to adhere or simply use a different release agent.

    1. Yeah my alarm bells went off at the WD40 too, it also being a water displacer and what that might do to the paint layer. Definitely recommend a test first!

      1. I was thinking the same thing as you and Sewducky. The faux stones looking amazingly like the real stone.

        1. P.S. Kristi, If this is going to take a few more days than your birthday deadline, I would forge ahead and finish the foundation work. You know everyone wants to see the final result!

  2. So excited that you had success! Because of you, I have taken a deep dive into the world of concrete and forms and boy, am I having fun! I wouldn’t mess with your current success, but one thing you might consider in the future for light weight concrete is adding perlite to the mix. It doesn’t seem to affect the strength of the concrete, but makes it lighter. I have used it in a hypertufa years ago, and was pleased with the results.

    On my latest concrete journey, I discovered a way to make modular raised beds out of concrete, and hope to be using the method to create not only some raised flower beds, but also edging for my current flower beds, maybe decorated with hand molded cement clay using your silicone mold method.

    So, thank you for always providing not only the details for what you are doing, but the inspiration to branch out and try things on my own!

    Best wishes to you and Matt, your posts are always a highlight of my day.