Last Updated on September 3, 2020 by Kristi Linauer
I’ve finally made some progress on my DIY stained wood raised platform bed frame. I still need to add all of the pretty trim and stain the whole thing, but I at least got it to the point where it was usable last night. And here’s what it looks like so far.
It’s definitely a step in the right direction, especially considering that this has been our master bedroom for the last two weeks.
So luxurious, right? 😀 Yep, our mattress and box spring are just sitting right on the floor. And yes, I’m using a step stool as a bedside table. And yes, that is a soon-to-be-installed toilet in a box sitting to the side. And yes, those are still the same blinds, window shade, and shelves that were here when we moved in. So much to do, but I’m trying not to let myself get stressed out. I want to enjoy the journey.
Anyway, here’s how I built the platform bed frame…
Tool & Supply List:
2 – 1″ x 8″ x 8′ pine boards*
2 – 1″ x 8″ x 6′ pine boards*
4 – 1″ x 2″ x 8′ pine boards*
4 – 1″ x 2″ x 6′ pine boards*
4 – 2″ x 3″ x 8′ boards
8 – 1″ x 4″ x 10′ boards
1 – 50-piece package #8 x 2-inch wood screws
Drill with drill bits and screwdriver bit
Brad nailer (this is the one I have) with 1 1/4-inch brads
4 – Heavy duty top plates for the decorative feet
4 – Decorative feet*
Choice of decorative trim*
*These pieces will show on the finished frame, so I made sure to choose high quality, super straight pieces of wood that will stain nicely (I hope). The nice stuff costs quite a bit more, so if you’re going to upholster the bed frame, there’s no need in purchasing the pretty stuff.
Build the basic frame:
I started with 1″ x 8″ pine boards, and cut two of them to 60 inches long, and two of them to 81.5 inches long. I attached one of the 60″ pieces to one of the 81.5″ pieces using wood glue and 2-inch wood screws.
You can see here that the wood screws went through the 81.5-inch piece, and into the end of the 60-inch piece. I pre-drilled all of the holes to prevent cracking.
Then I attached the other 81.5-inch piece to the other side, again using wood glue and wood screws.
And finally, I attached the last 60-inch piece.
Add support pieces to the long sides of the frame:
Next I cut four 80-inch long pieces of 2″ x 3″ lumber. I measured down 3 1/4 inches from the top of the frame, and aligned the top edge of the 2″ x 3″ lumber, and then attached it using wood glue and 2-inch wood screws. I screwed them in from the inside towards the outside so they wouldn’t show on the outside finished bed frame. I used a total of nine screws to attach the 2 by 3. Then I repeated the process on the other side of the bed frame.
Add center support pieces:
Next I attached the two center support pieces. I cut three spacer blocks (precisely 1 1/2-inches high) so that the center support pieces would be the same height as the side support pieces. With the 2 by 3 resting on the spacer blocks, I attached the first one using wood glue on the ends of the support piece, and wood screws through the frame and into the end of the 2 by 3. Then I used some scrap pieces of 2 by 3 wood (which would eventually be cut down and used as the center support legs) to properly space the support pieces, and attached the second center support piece using the same process.
You can see here that the screws are visible on the outside of the frame, but I did countersink them just a bit so that I can fill in with wood filler and sand it smooth before I stain the bed frame. Also, on the headboard side that is against the wall, I used two screws into each support piece since they’ll be against the wall and won’t show anyway.
And here’s a better view. You can see the spacer blocks that I cut to rest the support pieces on while I was attaching them. And you can also see how I used scrap 2 by 3 pieces to space the center support pieces. I later cut those scrap pieces down to use as the center legs. (Since the center legs don’t show, there’s no need to spend money on more fancy legs for that area.)
Attach the bottom frame:
Next I turned the bed frame completely over, so that the bottom was on top. Using 1″ x 2″ pine lumber, I cut pieces to create a frame around the bottom edges of the bed frame. I mitered the corners like I would on a frame. The I used wood glue and 1 1/4-inch brad nails to attach the pieces.
Here’s how it looked once all four pieces were attached, creating a frame around the bottom edge of the bed frame.
Here’s a closer look at the frame effect with the mitered corners.
Attach the decorative feet:
Next I attached the metal plates that the cute little feet screw into. I made very sure that I aligned the screws with the edge of the 1″ x 8″ wood that makes up the main frame. (Note: It looks like I didn’t space the metal plate properly on the right side, but that’s just because in the picture, the 1″ x 2″ piece of wood is blending into the 2″ x 3″ support piece that’s attached to the inside of the bed frame. The left side of the metal plate shows more accurately how I aligned the plate.)
Once the plate was firmly attached, I could screw in the cute little feet.
Here’s how it looked with all four feet attached.
I also attached an anti-skid pad to each of the feet.
With the feet attached, I flipped the bed frame right side up.
Attach the center support feet:
Using those same two scrap pieces of 2 by 3 that I used earlier, I slid them between the two center support pieces, marked where they needed to be cut to make them flush with the top edges of the support pieces, and cut off the excess. Then I attached them using wood glue and 2-inch wood screws that were screwed through the support pieces and into the legs from each direction.
(Sorry, but I didn’t get a picture of the legs after they were cut down and attached!! But just imagine that all of the excess that’s sticking out of the top has been cut off so that the tops of the legs are flush with the top edges of the two support pieces.)
Add the support slats:
I cut 16 pieces of 1″ x 4″ pine to use as the slats. I cut the pieces to just under 60 inches long, and then spaced them evenly (I didn’t measure the spacing — just eyeballed it). Then I attached them with wood glue and 1 1/4-inch brad nails using my brad nailer.
At that point, I could add the mattress.
I started building at about 3:15pm yesterday afternoon, and got it to this point at 8:00pm, working by myself as usual. I still want to add some pretty decorative trim, and then I’ll stain the whole thing.
I was a tad bit disappointed that I wasn’t able to finish all of the building (I was hoping to just have the staining left to do today), but that’s alright. I’d say that even without the pretty trim, this is still far better than what we had before! 🙂
It’s a rainy day here today, but I’m still going to do my best to get this thing finished today so I can show you the finished bed frame tomorrow. No promises, though. 🙂 And as you might have noticed, I’m going to do the headboard as a separate project. It was imperative that I get the bed frame completed ASAP so that the bed can be at the correct height for Matt, but a headboard isn’t quite so imperative.
The bed frame is finished! Here’s how it turned out…
You’ll find the other posts about this project here:
Addicted 2 Decorating is where I share my DIY and decorating journey as I remodel and decorate the 1948 fixer upper that my husband, Matt, and I bought in 2013. Matt has M.S. and is unable to do physical work, so I do the majority of the work on the house by myself. You can learn more about me here.
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