The Wall Of Cabinets Build Is Finished (In-Cabinet Lights Installed, and Upper Cabinets Heightened To Ceiling)

I did it, y’all!  With the exception of eight small pieces of trim that I didn’t have time to purchase, I’m finished with the building phase on the wall ‘o cabinets.

wall of cabinets -- building finished 1

Remember the drawing I did?

It’s pretty darn close, right?!  (Corbels will be added after the backsplash is done.)

The only differences that I see are the outer sections, both on the base cabinets and on the uppers.  I had originally planned for each section to be two 15-inch cabinets, and I ended up making them one 15-inch and one 12-inch to make more room around the wood columns.  I’m not thrilled with the fact that the individual sections aren’t symmetrical, but I’ll get over it.  Plus, I was looking at the kitchen that inspired my color choice and some of my design choices, and I realized that there’s nothing symmetrical about her cabinets either.  The top and bottom cabinets don’t even line up.  Not even close!  And yet, the kitchen was designed by one of the most well-known interior designers in the country, is owned by one of the most famous actresses in the country, and wound up in the pages of Elle Decor.

cameron diaz kitchen from elle decorCameron Diaz’s Manhattan apartment kitchen as featured in Elle Decor

So I think I’ll be just fine with my asymmetrical outer sections. At least my whole wall is symmetrical. 🙂

Now I’ll back up a bit and show you the final details of this wall.

When I left off in yesterday’s post, I had finished the lower cabinets by adding decorative feet to them, but the upper cabinets still looked like this…

installing lower cabinets 9

I needed to add the trim all the way to the ceiling on those upper cabinets, but before I could do that, I had to install the in-cabinet lights on the four middle cabinets that will have glass doors in them.

I chose these thin LED lights that I found at Home Depot.  They come in a package of three, but you can add up to three additional lights on one connector box for a total of six lights all controlled by the same switch.  So I bought one package of three, plus one individually packaged light.   Each light is about 2.5 inches in diameter.

installing in cabinet lighting - 1

These are also dimmable, which I liked since I didn’t want the inside of my cabinets to look like the surface of the sun.  These would require less light than if I were using these as undercabinet task lighting.

installing in cabinet lighting - 2

The installation is very easy.  You just twist the light off of the bracket on the back, screw the bracket into place, and twist the light back onto the bracket.

After measuring to find where I wanted to place the lights, I cut pieces of a square dowel rod to use as a placement guide for the brackets.  That way I didn’t have to fuss with a measuring tape each time.

installing in cabinet lighting - 3

Using those guides, I put the bracket in place and marked the holes with a Sharpie.  Then I pre-drilled the holes, and screwed the bracket into place.

Since I wanted the cords to run up through the top of the cabinet, I used a 5/16-inch drill bit and drilled a hole right behind the bracket.  As in, the drill bit was actually touching the back side of the bracket.

installing in cabinet lighting - 4

Then I poked the cord through the hole, and twisted the light onto the bracket.

installing in cabinet lighting - 5

I did the other three, and then connected all of the cords to the connector box on top of the cabinet.

installing in cabinet lighting - 6

And then I ran the power cord down to the now-hidden outlets (which I forgot to put face plate on…oops!).

outlets for sconces and undercabinet lighting

With the lights installed, I could then add the trim to the top of the cabinets.

I started by adding pieces of 1 x 2 that the big piece of wood could be attached to.  The end pieces were placed 3/4-inch back from the front of the cabinet, and the smaller pieces on top of the cabinets were attached right behind the top frame piece on the cabinets.  I added long pieces to the end walls, and then added smaller pieces to the top of each cabinet.  Each of these pieces was glued and nailed into place, and I let the glue dry before moving on to the next step.

wall of cabinets -- finishing the top cabinets - 1

When the glue was dry and the pieces were firmly in place, I cut a piece of 1 x 10 to the length of the whole wall.  I glued and nailed it into the bracing I had added.

wall of cabinets -- finishing the top cabinets - 2

Next I used some decorative moulding to cover the “seam” where the top of the cabinets met the 1 x 10.  I used my level to be sure it was straight, and then nailed it into place about every 18 inches or so.

wall of cabinets -- finishing the top cabinets - 3

And then finally, I added crown moulding to the top to finish it off.

wall of cabinets -- finishing the top cabinets - 4

You’ll notice that in between those steps, I also cut out the center panel on the four middle cabinets that will have the glass fronts.  I’ll share how I did that (since I don’t own a router) tomorrow.

And other than a few trim pieces at the side walls and on the spacers where the sconces will be installed, I’m finished with the building of this wall of cabinets!

wall of cabinets -- building finished 1

And just for a fun comparison, here’s how this wall looked when we bought the house.

kitchen 10

There’s still a ton of detail work that has to be done (wood filling, sanding and caulking all of the cracks, crevices, nail holes, etc.) before I can actually get to the priming and painting that we’re all patiently (or not so patiently) awaiting.  (I want to see green…SOON!)  Plus, I still haven’t decided whether I should prime and paint before or after pouring the concrete countertops.  I’ve thought through each way, and both seem to have pros and cons.  So I’m leaning towards pouring the countertops first, and then priming and painting the cabinets.  Any thoughts on that?

But before I can do any of that, I still have two more walls of cabinets to install!  I’m hoping the two remaining walls will be much less complicated since I’m using actual base cabinets as base cabinets.  🙂  I guess we’ll find out.  I’m starting on the refrigerator/range wall today.  Unfortunately I have to start at the very beginning with taping and mudding, so I don’t have much hope that I’ll get all of the cabinets installed today.  We’ll see!

By the way, I keep getting a handful of questions asked repeatedly, mainly about the outlets hidden behind the spacers on the upper cabinets, why I didn’t prime and paint the cabinets before installing them, how I’m going to protect the floor when painting, the price of this wall and how it compared to custom build and install, etc.  I’ll be answering those questions in a post soon.  🙂



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  1. Kristi:
    You may have addressed this before, but I was wondering about the window you got rid of. Did it just lead to another room and not to the outdoors? Also how will you wire the sconces with all the trim already in place?

  2. Wow!!! Super good work, you are quite a pro! I am totally impressed with your diligence and vision. LOVE, LOVE, LOVE what you are doing!

    1. Well, I’ve never poured concrete countertops before, so I may not know what I’m talking about. 🙂 But I can just imagine me somehow getting concrete on the base cabinets, and then having to sand down and repaint areas. And that almost never results in a completely smooth finish. Of course, I do plan on covering the cabinets with plastic and paper. I’m just a bit concerned about how messy the concrete countertop process might be.

  3. I think the cabinets DO look symmetrical – 15″ and 12″ on both the top and bottom of each side – am I wrong?

    1. Oh, I guess you were saying all of the outers being 15″ so they would be symmetrical – at any rate, it looks FABULOUS – every time I check your post I am amazed at your progress and work ethic – thanks for sharing:)

      1. Right, the wall as a whole is perfectly symmetrical, right down to the painted floor. 🙂 But I had originally planned for each individual section (two outer sections and one middle section) to also be symmetrical on its own, and the two outer sections aren’t now.

  4. Do you have a way to access those outlets after your pour your concrete counter tops? In my experience as an A/V professional, I can definitely see a potential future where you might need to get back there to tinker with that adapter, and it definitely would be a pain to have to somehow get back there.

    1. Angela, I believe the outlets are behind the spacers in the upper cabinets so she will have access to them.

  5. Ah-may-zing!! I love the before and after shots. The difference is remarkable! Once again you take something ugly and make it into drop-dead gorgeous! You should do this for a living….oh, wait a minute… ; )
    Can’t wait to see more progress!

  6. i would wait to paint the cabinets until you have all the cabinets so you can mix the paint all together. i painted something dark and light both and now i can tell where one paint can started for the other. but it was the dark color that i bought more paint and mixed it all together and painted it again.

  7. Looks great! I would prime the cabinets before countertops so the wood is protected from moisture, but then paint afterward so the finish isn’t ruin during countertop installation….

  8. And again: You are such an inspiration!! It looks pretty amazing and I can’t believe how much difference the trim makes, even though it’s all in different colours and materials still…
    I have two questions: Are you leaving out the corbels or will they follow when you do the backsplash? And won’t you have trouble opening the upper doors next to the sconces? I thought the lights would be in recessed parts of the wall and now wonder how that’ll work…
    I belong to those who wonder about painting the cabinets in place: whenever I paint furniture, I take it to my basement which means that it’ll be full with painting equipment for days or weeks (which is driving my husband nuts 🙂 ) and I cannot imagine how you’ll manage not to stain your beautiful floor immediately. So I’m really looking forward for some tips on that issue as well 🙂 As ever: thanks for sharing, it’s fantastic to be able to follow you!!

    1. I’ll do the corbels after the backsplash is in place. And surprisingly, the sconces won’t be in the way of the cabinet doors. The doors stop just a hair (and I do mean just a hair) away from the shades on the sconces.

      Regarding the painting, I explained why I do it in this order in today’s post. 🙂

  9. I agree with Trace, I would prime the cabinets first and paint after you have the counters installed.

    Everything looks fantastic so far! I look forward to your posts every morning 🙂

  10. I certainly can’t offer advice other than to say that I advise you to sell your talents- at least to me. Am I being dense? I don’t know what isn’t lined up. It all looks beautiful. I want a striped rug to copy your floor (can’t paint mine). Any advice on where to shop on a budget?

    1. I do have a tutorial on making a painted floor cloth. That would be a great way to get your stripes at a reasonable price! Just click on the DIY Projects link on the menu at the top of the page, and you should see the painted floor cloth there.

  11. Confession, I am anxiously awaiting your new post each day with this project. INCREDIBLE results so far. I can’t wait to see it painted, and the sconces, and the counter, the cabinet hardware…….and the walls!!! 🙂 LOVE it. You’re doing a GREAT job its hard to believe you don’t have a team of workers behind the scenes 🙂

  12. The wall of cabinets (would it qualify as a butlers pantry, fancy name?) is so exciting!! In a previous post you mentioned the doors on these cabinets were different heights on the cabinet and you would tell us later how to fix it. I haven’t seen a post and wonder if you corrected it with the trim or what? I have some doors off like that and thought it might be from the hinges. I will see you here tomorrow – same time same place!!!!!

    1. I love that! I really is kind of like a butler’s pantry right there inside my kitchen. 😀 Except that there’s no sink. Don’t butler’s pantries usually have sinks? Or am I getting it confused with something else?


      I keep forgetting to show the quick and easy fix for the doors! I’ll try to remember to do that tomorrow.

      1. I believe you have a Butler’s Pantry. After I posted the comment yesterday, I checked images on Houzz and found several designed like yours and in a kitchen area. I know the definition is “a service area between the kitchen and the dining room” but that’s not necessarily true in all cases these days. Some had sinks, some did not – some had a fridge under the counter – some not………..so I say “you have a Butlers Pantry” :)). See you tomorrow!!

        1. On another note – I have been thinking for a while that you should name your home, sample: “Downton Abbey” the way they do in England 🙂 Your home is you – with all your love, blood, sweat and tears you are putting into it, you are the home. And if you go for idea, why don’t you ask us readers to submit names? With all your readers all over the world, names could be fantastic. Then, mount a gorgeous custom plaque on the front of your house with the name…your forever home !!!! Just saying…………I am always full of ideas-good and bad! 🙂

  13. Seriously. Wow again. You have inspired me to replace all of our builder-grade cabinets with peeling paint. We’re doing it in (many) phases. Will keep watching for hints and helpful tips and tricks from you, the Expert!

  14. I would paint the cabinets first because if you pour the counter you might have to wait a while for it to cure before you can put paper over it so you don’t spill paint on it. And what if you do get paint on it before it is sealed. Amazing job. I don’t know how you do it.

  15. It is looking fantastic and you have accomplished so much so quickly. You need to slow down, girl – what kind of energy pills do you take??? I need some ASAP.

    Take care

    1. Honestly, about a week ago I started taking green tea extract that Matt orders online from Swanson’s, and I can tell a big difference in my energy level throughout the day! I used to get stuff done, but I’d be dragging all day long, and if I sat down too long, I’d fall asleep. Literally, fall asleep sitting at the table or while working at my computer. Now I have amazing energy all day long. And it’s much different from caffeine, sugar, or energy drinks, because there’s no energy high followed by a crash. I just feel good and energetic all day long. 🙂

    2. Thank you so much, Kristi, I will definitely order some and try it. My husband and I had talked about getting B12 shots if we could get a doctor to do it. We will both try it. I, He, We have so much to do and both of us run out of steam way too early.

      Thanks again for the info, I really appreciate it.

  16. Looks really good!

    I would protect the wood finish first before doing anything with moisture near them to avoid extra sanding of potential raised grain etc. coming from moisture.

  17. I’d paint first, especially if I wanted the interiors painted too. My reason is because I’d spray. We tried brush when we built our cabinets but I wanted the smoothest application possible. I think that even if I were doing a faux finish I’d still spray first since it goes so much quickly and drying time is cut significantly- I be an impatient sort of woman. 😉 If you need a recommendation for a sprayer just let me know. We bought ours on Amazon at a pretty good price. I figured it was a wise investment for us since we’ll probably be building stuff until the day we die. lol BTW, we’ve even used it with stain too.

      1. Hubby was using a spray gun too and compressor too, before I bought the Fuji Mini Max HVLP. I just “interviewed” him and he said that he’d highly recommend that you use an hvlp. He said that it provides better control, there’s less overspray, less paint is needed and the unit actually heats the paint slightly which results in, among other things, a smoother finish.

        I bought our unit 3 years ago based on a lot of reading, video watching, and reviews by people who were experienced with HVLPs, also it was within my budget at under $600. I’m the designer and type A QC inspector in all our DIY ventures. Hubby is the creator and fixer. It took some practice and several videos to get the motion down, even though he was very experienced with the spray gun & compressor. All the time and money invested was well worth it, and that machine has more than paid for itself since you don’t need as much product, even if you have to do a re-do, plus there’s the time savings in application and drying. It also saved us both a lot of heartburn, if you know what I mean. 😉

  18. I was wondering about drawers. I noticed you eliminated them in this bank of cabinets. I find I need many drawers in my kitchen. Do you have many planned along the other walls?

    1. We built our dining room full wall of built-in cabinets. We loved the look without drawers, so we made one cabinet with drawers behind the doors. This allowed us to vary the depths, plus we didn’t end up with more drawers than we needed, which also would have reduced the height below, which I needed to be tall. The “handles” are cut out from the top edge, and I love the old fashioned look of them. I’m sure that if Kristi finds the need for drawers on that side of the room, she’ll probably do something similar. Plus baskets do make good drawers. 😉

  19. As usual, fab job!!! You are amazing girl. I’d vote paint, then pour. Also, I was just wondering if you are planning on putting in drawers in the rest of your lower cabs? The “butlers pantry” as one person called it (!) looks wonderful, but bottom drawers are nice so as to avoid the “crouch & search” rescue mission when digging things out of the back of bottom cabs. Just something to think about. 🙂

  20. I’m wondering how you are going to wire the sconces since you already installed the top piece and crown. Im guessing you have access from underneath??

    1. I’m wiring them to plug in, and they’ll just plug into the outlets right behind the spacer. It’s open from underneath the cabinets, so I can just reach my arm right in there and plug them in.

  21. Looking great, Kristi! You are certainly getting a workout! My initial thought is to spray paint cabinets first then pour concrete counters, especially the upper cabinets.

  22. I would use primer only before pouring countertop..and how will you match crown molding on the other walls with crown molding you have over cabinets now installed because it doesn’t look like it would cover where the wall and ceiling join..hope you know what I am trying to say..everything looks great..look forward to seeing all your designs in this kitchen..

  23. I have the same question as another. How will you connect the sconces? I’m so confused.
    However, I’m totally amazed by what you have done and how wonderful it is turning out. Just fabulous. I really look forward to your posts. Yours is the only blog I follow. Nobody else compares.

    1. I’m wiring them to plug in, and I’ll just drill a hole in the spacer, poke the wire through, and plug it into the outlet right there behind the spacer. That area is open from underneath the upper cabinets, so I can easily stick my arm in there and plug them in. Hope that’s clear! If not, I answered in more detail in today’s post. 🙂

  24. Your room looks wider. Not sure if it is the cabinets, the lighting, the floor or the fact that there are no other cabinets, but it looks so much bigger. You should be proud of yourself.

  25. So impressed!

    Do you have a post that shows all the tools that you use? I want to start buying some tools, and I would like your opinion on the “must” haves for home DIY.

    1. If you click on DIY Basics on the top menu, you’ll see a few posts about power tools. I’ve gotten some new ones that I find invaluable, so I really need to write an updated post about it.

  26. Just in awe of all you’ve done! You are really making a house your home with your talents and vision. Thank you for an inspiring, informative, and enjoyable blog!

  27. Have you gotten tired of me telling you how amazing you are? 🙂 We are looking at a house tomorrow that will need a total kitchen gut job, not sure how to factor in the cost of that (plus probably 2 bathroom remodels as well). Are there any guidelines or hints you could give me? As for paint versus concrete- from my own clumsy experience, I would probably paint first. We had new tile installed in our upstairs bathroom, and um, I knocked a full bucket of paint off the ladder as I was moving it…. 😛

    1. The actual cost of a kitchen remodel depends on how much you’re willing to DIY and the finishes you choose (e.g., laminate countertops vs. granite). But if I were making an offer on a house and needed to consider a gut job on a kitchen, I wouldn’t take into account whether or not I’d be DIYing it. I’d just roughly estimate that full blown kitchen remodels hired out to contractors and subs generally run around $30,000 to $50,000, depending on the size and quality/customization of materials selected. That’s the number I would keep in my mind when making an offer on a house with a horribly outdated kitchen.

      1. Well, I am completely disappointed in the house. I fell in love with the 3 acre wooded lot, but the entire house would need a total gut. Just way more than we could tackle, plus the price was way out of line for the amount of work needed. I am majorly bummed! 🙁

        1. Well, that’s a bummer. So sorry you were disappointed. 🙁 That just means there’s something better for you out there! It’ll be worth the searching and the wait, and you’ll be so glad you did in the end.

  28. I can only reiterate many of the previous comments…I am so in awe of you and your many talents! I love what you have done and am eagerly awaiting your next post. Where do you get your energy to do all of this?

    1. It’s just sheer determination to get it done (knowing that no one else is going to do it for me) plus green tea extract. 🙂 I feel so good and energetic all day long when I take that stuff!

  29. They are fantastic, as we have come to expect from you. I have used those LED puck lights and love them. I am a little concerned that you have the wiring and connector box behind the permanent piece of wood over the cabinets. You will eventually need access to that.

    One other thing that I discovered (and changed) about mine is that if they are located at the very front edge of the cabinet, the trim and door frame hide the light from glaring right in your face. You get the effect of the lighting without having to see the actual light. So take heed when you install them under your top cabinets to light the counter top, move them all the way to the front of the cabinet, and your trim will hide them but you’ll still have the lighted effect.

    Everything looks wonderful. And I’m sure you’ve figured out a way to access those electrical outlets in case you want to plug up some sort of appliance on the counter.

    You are such a worker bee.

    1. I thought about that connector box being behind the permanent piece on top. I didn’t really have much of an option, but I think I’ve found a solution. I’m thinking about purchasing a couple of extra lights just to have on hand. And then if one burns out, I’m just going to rewire the light. From what I can tell, when you unscrew the light from the connector, the wire is just attached to the back of the light by two screws — hot and neutral. If I can unscrew those and then attach the wires to a new light, that should work. At least I hope it’ll work!

  30. I love this wall of cabinets! It looks great and I’m sure when the paint is on and the backsplash in place it’ll be ready for a party!

  31. You never cease to amaze me and you make my DIY look like child’s play! It’s so much fun following along as you bust down walls and build up a home. 🙂

  32. WOW!!! Looks fantastic!
    I can imagine one way you might have cut out the inside of the doors, but what I’m really curious about is how you’re going to insert the glass.

    On a side note, middle dd is visiting the great state of Texas with her boyfriend (his mother lives there – I think it’s Crosby) this week and next.

  33. You are an amazing DIYer wish I was 20 years younger so I could be a master DIYer like you!!! I will live vicariously through your blog and your creations. Thanks!!!

  34. Wow! You did an AWESOME job! Please show us step by step how to get those
    darn ugly panels out of the middle so I can have some glass doors too!


  35. Paint the upper cabinets first, pour the counters and then paint the bottoms.
    That seems to best to me.

  36. WOW! 🙂

    My only thought on which to do first, painting or pouring is:
    Is there any chance that paint could get on the newly poured concrete cabinets and permanently stain them? :S

    1. Yep, there’s definitely a chance of that. It’ll just depend on my taping/papering skills. But the other way around, there’s a chance I can drip concrete on my newly painted cabinets. *Sigh* I guess there’s no perfect way. I’ll probably end up doing whichever one first that I feel the most inspired to do. Pretty much like I do everything else. 😀

  37. You are a marvel! You always blow my mind with your ability! You truely need to be recognized for all your talents! Anxious for the next step.

  38. I can’t believe it took me till almost 7 o’clock to get to read and see the progress! I was ready to start yelling for everyone to leave me alone. I felt like I was being kepg from watching “Game of Thrones”(yes I am 65 years old and totally addicted, LOL). So finally. I spent 2 hojrs today at Lowes. It’s closer than Home Depot and I love them both! I wonder if after menopause, with the loss of estrogen, we become more like men? I could never understand my husbands love affair with hardware stores, but now I seem to feel the same way! Yesterday, i was at my local Ace Hardware store, they always know just where to find the little whogitz you are looking for, and they know the right name for it! Anyway, way offthe subject…..I think I know the answers to your three questions. Tell me if I was paying attention….outlets behind the spacers are for your beautiful sconces, …..you didn’t prime and paint before installing because 1. The cabinets could have gotten banged up in the installation, 2. You really didn’t have the space to prime and paint and 3. It was a personal preference……the floor has two, maybe three coats of polly, so paint accidents can be cleaned up , and the floor is protected with the brown constuction paper. Now as far a cost for your kitchen versus custom (for all intents and purposes yours are , in my opinion, custom)……….I think it’s like the commercial says………Kristi’s kitchen……..priceless……..for everything else there’s Master Card! Can’t wait to see the rest…..your oldest and biggest fan……oh btw…..do you want a router? I have one, probably vintage now, bought for the husband one of the first years we were married……it’s been out of the case once when his friend borrowed it. I think it is still in the basement, I can ship it to you, LOL

      1. I will route around in the basement the next time my son or daughter are her to go down with me ( basements & me are like you & crawlspaces). If it is still there it is yours! I won’t forget, I will let you know in a future post. Too bad you are so far away, we also have a table saw. Bought that for his birthday about 10 years ago. If I have stuff done in the house my carpenter uses it. My son used it to cut bamboo to build a trellis for his garden a few years back. I plan to use it, at least try. My dining room table was custom built and has 12 12″ boards. When they are all in we can seat 22 people at the table. It’s a drop leaf cherry table that when closed up can fit right through a normal doorway. I want to cut the boards in half, lengthwise, and have them stripped down to the natural wood, then put them together randomly for an 8 foot table top, using some kind of wroght iron railing at each end for the base. The Hubs isnot thrilled with the idea, but what are we going to do with a table that big??? I’ll do it, even if I have to take it back to the guys who made it and havethem run the boards through the planer then cut them. That would probably be easiest!!! I’full of ideas, just need to be 30 again, LOL

  39. Kristi, your finished project looks AMAZING! I am definitely going to reference this as we are remodeling the kitchen in the foreclosure we just purchased. Maybe I missed it, but did you say how far your bottom cabinets overhang the base you set them on? Is there a standard rule to follow with an overhang like that?

  40. They look great, and yes, indeed, if you look at the inspiration kitchen the cabinets are not symmetrical in the least. Even may we say, a bit wonky? Looking forward to seeing them painted.

  41. The cabinets looks great!!! I had thought of doing this in my dining room as a built in hutch. I too would have at least primed the cabinets before hanging them because I would be worried about making a mess with paint on the new floors etc. Also, I kinda feel like the accent pieces in the front are a little big or ornate for the cabinets. I can’t wait to see the progress. You are doing a great job. I wouldn’t have the stamina for it!!!!!

  42. I am loving the way this kitchen is turning out and like everything that you have done. I just noticed that the centre of the cupboards lines up neatly with the painted floor – you have obviously put a lot of thought into the plans for this project. Looking forward to seeing the next step!

    1. I love that you noticed that. I spent a lot of time actually counting the number of rows of floor boards I had, and then coming up with a pattern that would be perfectly centered and would start and end at the very same place on the side walls. 😀 I didn’t know if anyone else would notice that, but I knew that if it wasn’t centered, it would bug the heck out of me every time I saw it.

  43. This blog has become my 21st century soap opera. Can’t wait to check in every day to see what the heroine is up to. You know those Hometalk FB posts that always say something like, “Wait to gasp,” or “The results will take your breath away”? Well, Kristi, you do make me gasp almost every day. You’re my DIY hero.

  44. Kristi,
    All I can say is YOURE A ROCKSTAR! As for the painting comments (whether you should or shouldn’t have), do whatever you think is best. You have proven you know what you’re doing and if you make a mistake you fix it! So more power to you girl!

    1. She commented a while back on my blog about her concrete countertop nightmare. I’m not really worried about that happening. First, it’s kind of a random fluke that that happened to hers, but those hairline cracks are something that can happen not only in concrete, but also in marble and granite. But they’re not very common.

      But I’d be willing to bet that her concrete countertops were done much different from how I’ll be doing mine. Just from looking at them, they look like pre-cast countertops, meaning that they were made off site by someone who made a form, poured the concrete countertop into the form with the countertop being made upside down. And then when dry, the form was broken away to leave just one solid mass of concrete, which was then installed.

      Mine will be poured in place. It’s a very different technique that requires the installation of concrete backer board first with the , and then the concrete poured on top of that. So even if my countertops were to ever form a hairline crack, it wouldn’t go all the way through. It would stop at the concrete backer board.

      Not sure if that makes sense, but I’m not worried about it at all. 🙂

  45. I love everything you have done. You are amazing in how quick and professional everything you do is. I cannot wait to see the cabinets painted!!!

  46. I like the 15 & 12 inch combo BETTER than the original plan. It’s a great play on the eye that makes the entire wall look larger than it is. I love it! You are a Tasmanian Devil decorator. Your energy and enthusiasm is soooo inspiring. I’m in the middle of a pergola and living/dining room renovation and whenever I start whining and not wanting to do a darn thing to either project, I go here and, viola! I’m up and going again.
    It’s all looking spectacular and it’ll be Paltrow wishing she had your kitchen when you’re finished.

  47. It’s probably too late, but I wonder if you could have modifed the lower cabinets. With your construction skills perhaps you could have removed the interior sides of those cabinets to make it one base for each side and made your own doors – giving you 2 doors on each side. To get back that symmetry.

  48. Hello Kristi, I love everything you have done. You are startling in how quick and professional everything you do is. The cabinets look great! You are doing a great job. Kristi, your finished project looks miraculous! Great job.

  49. Hi Kristi, I know this is an older post but do you remember what trim you used to cover the seam between the top of the cabinets and the mdf? I am having such a hard time finding trim for that seam on my own cabinets and I love how yours looks.

  50. I’ve been wanting to extend my laundry room cabinets like this. Is there a reason why you didn’t put supports on the top and just the sides and bottom?

      1. Sorry, I didn’t know what to call them. I am talking about the small 1×2 pieces of wood you nailed to the cabinets. They were used to nail the board into which extended the cabinetry to the ceiling.

        1. I didn’t add a top support because once you have the sides and bottom supported, the top isn’t necessary. With the sides and bottom supported, there’s no where else that the top can go. It will automatically align with the side and bottom supports. If you support three sides of a rectangular piece of wood, the fourth side will automatically stay in line with the other three sides.